Sunday, February 12, 2012

Macau

We spent this past weekend in Macau, cooling our heels in the rather lovely Mandarin Oriental on the water's edge, overlooking the Ponte da Amizade and the Lago Nam Van.  The hotel was hushed and muted, yet still luxurious and elegant.  To maintain the quiet, the hotel does not maintain a casino but rather connects to the MGM Grand.
A view from the room
I loved walking through the over-the-top casinos, some of which were larger than any I had ever seen.  I particularly loved the lavish gold-toned cloth chandeliers, brocade drapes, and beige silk plump chairs of the Wynn casino.   In some areas, there were tables upon tables, as far as the eyes could see in all directions. There were also more members-only and high roller rooms / tables than I had ever noticed at any other casino in the States.   Most of the gamblers and tourists in the city seemed to be from mainland China.   I did notice that the gamblers seemed quite serious here - they all tended to be quiet, intense, alert (probably counting, scheming, calculating probabilities in their head) and forsook alcohol for coffee, tea, water and cigarettes.  It was truly a world apart from the loud, raucous environment I had come to associate with gambling joints in Vegas or Atlantic City.

We didn't spend all of our time in the casinos, though - it seemed a shame to make the trip and not try to glimpse some of the old town square, to try to find the lingering vestiges of Macau's Portuguese legacy.  (According to various sources, Macau was both the first and last European outpost in East Asia.  Portuguese settlers first settled the area in 1557, and administered the region until it was officially ceded in December of 1999.  That's a long time.)  Thus on the second night, we meandered through the old town squares, marveling at the cobblestone paths, the intricate wrought iron balconies, the delicately carved wood shutters and the thick stone steps.  Despite the commercialism and tourism that has crept into the area, the narrow streets, large swaying yellow lanterns and dilapidated buildings still managed to emanate a shabby charm, evocative of the romance of years past.




Casinos are probably what first come to mind when one mentions Macau, but the area is also known for some pretty good food and shopping.  Egg tarts are famous here and seafood is fresh and abundant.  Shops selling jewelry, cigars and fine liquor also abound.  We couldn't help but notice the heaps and heaps of luxury watch stores lining the city sidewalks.  Perhaps when the high rollers win big in Macau, their first urge is to go and buy a US$45,000 diamond encrusted Rolex?  Hmmm.

Huge shark fins on display.  And, a white cat. 
Restaurants displayed tanks full of fish, lobsters, crabs and even manta rays.
Does this caption even need a caption?
Macau is an easy trip from Hong Kong - it takes just over an hour to pass through immigration, take the ferry and clear customs.  The ferry ride can be a little choppy, but on a nice day affords pretty views of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the south side of Lantau island.

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